Saturday, September 26

Your Hairdresser Has a Request: Please Stop Bringing AI-Generated Inspiration

The Rise of AI in the Beauty Industry

Flawless skin with an almost ethereal glow, seamlessly integrated blonde highlights that make individual strands indistinguishable, perfectly straight noses devoid of any curves, fingers adorned with tattoos resembling intricate “sleeves”, and manicures featuring textures and designs so complex they seem impossible to recreate in reality. The advent of artificial intelligence (AI) in the beauty sector has captivated clients, who increasingly find themselves drawn to the allure of generative chatbots. Professionals across various fields have noted a significant uptick in the number of AI-generated images that clients bring as references to illustrate their desired outcomes.

Dr. Melissa Doft, a board-certified plastic surgeon based in New York, remarks, “Bringing AI-generated images to consultations has become commonplace.” Similarly, July, a tattoo artist from Leicester, England, known as @inkedbyjuls, reveals, “In recent months, nearly 30% of my clients have approached me with AI-generated images as references for their tattoo ideas.” While some professionals welcome these images as starting points and acknowledge their utility for clients who struggle to articulate their visions, there is a consensus among those interviewed that such artificially generated representations often lead to disappointment.

Several experts highlighted that clients might not even realise that the images they have sourced are AI-generated, as many online platforms flooded with inspiration contain low-quality material. “When I identify an AI-generated image, I am very candid with them about what they can realistically expect,” adds Anna Miles, a nail artist based in New York.

Transforming Plastic Surgery Consultations

For years, plastic surgeons have cautioned their patients against using celebrity photos as benchmarks for procedures such as rhinoplasty, breast augmentation, or tummy tucks. A celebrity’s face or physique is not a template for anyone else, and no surgery, regardless of how extraordinary or costly, can transform an individual to look precisely like another person.

Nowadays, it seems patients are following medical advice more closely than ever. “Years ago, I would sketch a new profile on a photo of your nose while you watched. Now, patients hand me an image and say, ‘Make me look like this,'” explains Dr. Doft. She notes that some individuals even arrive with an entire medical plan generated by AI, complete with the procedures they believe they require and post-operative care instructions.

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While AI can serve as a useful research tool, it is the surgeons who possess the expertise to perform these intricate surgeries. “AI-generated photos do not account for anatomical limitations that influence potential surgical outcomes, such as skin thickness, facial bone structure, and the shape and resilience of underlying cartilage in rhinoplasty cases. AI cannot comprehend what can and cannot be realistically achieved in facial plastic surgery,” argues Dr. Steven Pearlman, a dual board-certified facial plastic and reconstructive surgeon based in New York.

Understanding Beauty Standards

Another critical issue is that these generative AI models are trained to idealise a very specific type of beauty. “A generated face is optimised for one thing: so-called ideal proportions, such as widely spaced eyes, a small and straight nose with a delicate tip, full lips, high cheekbones, and perfect symmetry,” states Dr. Doft. Many patients cherish the nose they inherited from their father or their family’s characteristic eyes, and an AI-generated photo erases all individuality in favour of a uniformity that is all too common.

Both Dr. Doft and Dr. Pearlman concur that patients should seek out qualified and experienced surgeons who can create tailored plans. Pearlman admits to using computer-generated images to show rhinoplasty and revision rhinoplasty patients possible outcomes, but only after thoroughly assessing the patient to establish what can realistically be achieved.

For unretouched inspirational photos, Dr. Doft suggests that patients bring along older photos of themselves or “images of real people whose features they find authentic,” explaining, “These provide me with much more to work with than a retouched ideal.”

Nail Art and AI Inspiration

While Anna Miles prefers to sketch nail designs on paper, she understands why clients might turn to generative AI for inspiration. “AI can be beneficial for clients who struggle to articulate their ideas. However, my imagination often surpasses the algorithmic output,” she states. Sigourney Nuñez, a nail artist in Los Angeles, recalls an instance when a collaborating brand presented her with a project brief “filled with AI-generated photos.” Initially taken aback, she was relieved to see that they still hired an artist to create the actual work, even though they used AI as a sketching tool.

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Both Miles and Nuñez believe that this form of inspiration can set unrealistic expectations for what a human nail artist can achieve, but they generally manage to realign client expectations through further collaboration. Nuñez explains, “I try to make it clear that the inspirational photo is merely a starting point.” She adds, “I’m not a photocopier; I’m an artist.”

The Challenges of Hair Colour and Cuts

Carly Zanoni, a colourist from San Diego who frequently shares advice on how to work from client inspiration photos, does not mind AI-generated images. “I love when clients bring inspiration because it gives me a sense of the overall style they’re aiming for. Is it bright? Soft? High-contrast? Worn-in? AI-generated images can convey that effectively.” Sara Briscoe, a colourist from Queensland, Australia, agrees to an extent: “Any visual reference is helpful, particularly for those who find verbal communication challenging. However, it becomes less useful when the image is so artificial that it lacks real texture. The shine, density, and tone are all false and unattainable.”

Hannah O’Malley, a hairdresser from Wichita, Kansas, specialising in razor cuts, strongly opposes AI-generated photos and the unrealistic expectations they often foster. “AI-generated images do not depict real hair patterns or reflect colour as it appears in reality. We cannot offer clients a robot hairstyle,” she points out, noting that this can lead to significant frustration during consultations.

O’Malley advises clients to seek inspiration from the stylist’s portfolio; if you find styles you like directly on their social media, it is likely that the stylist can achieve exactly what you are looking for. She also suggests using Pinterest, provided clients filter out AI-generated images.

Concerns in Tattoo Artistry

In the realm of beauty, the tattoo industry seems to express particular apprehension regarding AI-generated images. Among those consulted for this piece, tattoo artists were the most vocal about ethical concerns, such as the fact that generative models are trained on the work of other artists and the environmental implications of this technology. Numerous artists have explicit prohibitions against posting AI-generated images as inspiration on their social media or booking websites.

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“I’ve noticed that when people generate their tattoo references using AI, they become attached to what they receive. I’ve had clients leave when I told them I wouldn’t tattoo their AI-generated design or become frustrated when I redrew the image they initially brought,” explains Sam Bradley, a tattoo artist based in Tacoma, Washington, who has one of those prohibitions clearly stated on her Instagram profile.

Echoing Dr. Pearlman’s concerns about AI inspiration in plastic surgery, tattoo artist Alyssa Stokes asserts that these generative programmes simply do not comprehend what type of art can realistically be created on a person’s skin. Stokes also highlights that the images she has seen do not consider how a design would fit with an individual’s anatomy: “They include too many details, leave insufficient space between them, and lead the client to believe it’s achievable when, in reality, it is not.” Bradley shares the sentiment: “An experienced tattoo artist knows how a design will age over time. They must consider placement, size, and techniques needed to create a tattoo that remains beautiful.”

Collaboration Over Automation

Rather than resorting to AI, these tattoo artists prefer clients to collaborate with them on designs and trust them to create something exceptional. “As someone who deeply values individual creativity and connection with my clients, this type of ‘inspiration’ greatly limits my creative flow from the outset,” states Stokes. In fact, many tattoo artists favour more abstract starting points: “I prefer clients to create an inspiration board on Pinterest, send me a written explanation of their idea, or even doodle the most absurd sketches to describe it,” shares July.

“The days of independent thought and human creativity are behind us. While the growing sentiment against AI gives me much hope, I believe art is becoming far more valuable to those seeking it,” concludes Bradley.

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